TAKING A MODEL T OUT OF
The following summary by Milt Webb is very thorough. It may keep
you mighty busy for awhile, but it should have you ready to tour.
GETTING IT READY FOR DURABLE TOURING
Yep, it takes more than a can of gas and a new battery to get a
mothball 'T' [10-50 years storage] ready to go on the road!
You always hear, "It ran OK 10 years ago!" In my experience, it takes
all the checks, cleaning, repairs, and adjustments outlined below to
get through the first mile!
Install a new 6-volt battery, negative to ground. Remove and clean
ground strap bolt on the frame. Install a ground strap from the bolt at
the emergency brake cross shaft bracket to the bottom U-joint cover
bolt on the crankcase. Use a heavy woven-style cable or a #1 gauge
cable with flat ends. Loosen one bolt on the starter and re-tighten.
This breaks corrosion, if any.
Remove and disassemble the starter switch. Sand the contacts to shiny
clean. Remove starter cable nut at starter. Tighten bottom nut to just
snug. These are pinned and soldered on the inside. Sometimes the solder
joint breaks loose and the pin pulls out easily if over-tightened.
Install new #1 gauge cables, from the battery to the switch and from
the switch to the starter. Old cables are usually corroded even when
you cannot see the green.
Caution: Do not use 12 volt cables [number 4 or 6 gauge]. 12-volt
cables will get warm or hot during crank, plus the cranking may be very
It is best to test the starting system with a digital voltmeter. For
best results, acceptable voltage drop during cranking readings are:
Cable, batt. to starter switch 0.2 volt max
Starter switch, post-post 0.2 volt max
Cable, starter switch to starter0.2 volt max
Cable, batt. neg.[-] to engine0.2 volt max
Batt. pos. [ +] to neg. [-] 4.5 min [cold]
Battery, positive to negative5.0 min [hot]
Starter draw 400 amps max
See Figure 1 on "How to Make Voltage Drop Measurements".
For better starter switch durability, install a '48 Ford starter,
6-volt solenoid. Use the 'T' starter switch for the solenoid 'control'
switch to ground. See Figure 2 on 'hooking up a solenoid'.
If the starter is 'sluggish' at this point, try spraying some
electronic or motor cleaner on the starter commutator during crank. If
the current draw is over 400 amps, have the starter re-built.
During re-build, install a seal in the end of the starter mount
housing. See Figure 3 for how to. This will prevent massive oil leaks
out of the starter.
Test starter after re-build by hooking the starter post to a 6-volt
battery plus (+) terminal with heavy jumper cables. Hold the starter on
the floor. Connect the negative (-) terminal to the starter at the
mounting bolt flange. Run starter motor [no load]. Grasp the starter
shaft and hold to slow down the shaft. If you can slow it down some,
but can't stop it, the starter is good. If you can stop it [shaft], it
won't crank engine. During this test, the amps will go up to 75 at
around 4.3 volts.
The commutator [timer], coils, and coil box are usually in need of
cleaning, adjusting, and tightening. Corrosion takes its toll from
Clean the timer and roller [or brush] with solvent and sand the
grounding bars to shiny clean. Sand the roller or brush tip. Sand the
brush-type commutator bars and clean with solvent.
Check the wiring from the commutator to the coil primary for shorts and
opens by disconnecting both ends. for testing. Re-install wires to
commutator, routing them so they will not touch metal or kink when
advancing or retarding the spark.
On roller-type commutators, oil rotor and commutator bars liberally
with motor oil upon re-assembly. On brush-type commutators. I recommend
leaving the brush and commutator strips dry.
Disassemble the coil box connectors. Clean all the hardware in muriatic
swimming pool acid [goggles and gloves]. It is best to solder the
contacts to the small carriage bolts . Install new wood [kit from 'T'
suppliers]. Treat the wood with water sealer, but do not paint the
wood, especially with black paint. Painting may cause shorts. Black
paint has charcoal, a conductor!
I strongly recommend you let a professional restore the coils,
installing new points and modern condensers, and adjusting to the
correct current draw using the hand crank magneto. You will more than
likely have reasonable trouble-free operation. Adjusting the gap to a
'strong buzz' does not guarantee good spark.
Clean or replace the spark plugs and adjust the gap to 0.025 inches.
You may want to compare the cost of a distributor to 'T' coil repair.
If you're showing your 'T', stay with the original coils and timer to
maintain authenticity. If you want a driver [durability and smoother
acceleration] purchase a distributor, 6-volt coil, and plug wires.
If using a distributor, disconnect the 'T' coil box primary wire and
connect it to the new 6-volt coil + terminal. Connect the coil °©
terminal to the distributor. Use number 14-gauge wire for all primary
wire hook up.
If your 'T' is a 12-volt system, install a 'dropping' resistor to cut
the voltage from 12 to nine.
Adjust the point gap to 0.017 inches if no specification is provided.
The distributor turns clockwise. Remove number one plug and turn crank
to TDC on the compression stroke. Retard the spark lever, turn the
distributor body in the counter-clockwise direction until the points
just start to open. This is the retarded firing position on number one
Install the advance linkage and adjust the rod length with the spark
control lever in the retard position to match the retard position of
the distributor. Tighten distributor housing clamp bolt.
Check advance linkage for binding.
If your new distributor has advance weights, retard to start, then
advance the spark by moving the lever down 1⁄2 inch from the retard
position. The automatic advance will take care of additional
distributor advance at higher RPM.
Remove all four plugs and measure the compression. Continually crank
the engine until the compression pressure has built up four times.
Record the compression pressure of each cylinder. A good 'T' engine
[cold] will crank 50 psi on each cylinder. 45 psi is OK. 25 psi is a
worn engine or bad valves and there may not be enough power to propel
the car. If the compression pressure varies over 5 psi from cylinder to
cylinder, grind the valves and set the tappet clearance to around 0.012
If there's no starter, remove all four plugs. Crank each cylinder
through compression with your thumb covering the plug hole. If the
pressure is about equal in all cylinders, the valves are probably OK.
Also, visually look down each plug hole at top of valves. If they are
the same color, the odds are they're good enough to start the engine.
Drain the oil. Install four quarts of 20-50 weight oil. Check for
dripping out of the top oil level petcock.
If the old oil is 'jelly' or 'syrup' let it drain overnight.
Install pan plug using a small amount of RTV gasket maker on washer.
If equipped with an external oiler, disassemble and verify it's not
After start up, let engine warm up for one minute at around 1000 RPM.
Increase the RPM to 1500 and hold it steady. Then, short each cylinder,
one at a time, to detect rod bearing knock. If the rod knock(s) goes
away with a warm engine, the rods are slightly loose. If the rod
knock(s) continues with a warm engine, adjust the rods to 0.002 inches
clearance and install Chevrolet-style oil dippers ["T" supply houses
stock the dippers].
Refer to the 'Engine Manual' published by MTFCA for detailed
Drain water and re-fill. Add a cup of StaLube 'soluble oil'.
If the tubes are rusted on the top end, remove radiator and have it
professionally checked and flushed at a radiator shop.
In the fuel system, checks include the fuel tank, fuel lines, filter,
carburetor, and intake manifold leaks.
Start at the fuel tank. If it's full of flakey rust inside, or there is
'algae' and\or it has rust holes in the bottom, have it restored
professionally or replace it.
Disassemble the fuel sediment bowl, clean in muriatic acid and replace
the filter screen.
Set up sediment bowl in vice. Loosen front fitting. Use a propane torch
to heat bowl casting.
Reassemble and install the sediment bowl into the tank. Use aviation,
gas-resistant sealant on the threads. Do not get sealant inside gas
passages. Do not use 'Teflon' tape. Gasoline will dissolve the tape,
and it may get inside, causing flooding problems.
Pour in one gallon of gas and test for leaks and flow out the sediment
bowl. Install the gas line over the frame rail. Route the fuel line
under the splash shield parallel to the frame rail. Route fuel line
between firewall and frame rail adjacent to firewall to frame bracket.
This routing will minimize heat transfer into fuel line. Other routings
may cause fuel foaming ['vapor lock'].
Disassemble carburetor and clean in carburetor cleaner. If float needle
valve seat is 'frozen' in the carburetor top, leave it alone. Use old
If the needle valve seat can be removed, replace it with a new 'Viton'
tip needle and seat or a double check ball-style valve [Grose Jet].
Test the float [brass] in hot water. If small bubbles escape while
immersed, the float is defective. Replace it!
The older carburetors use a cork float. If intact, sand lightly with
320 grit sand paper. Coat with gas-resistant epoxy [Hobby Poxy #1].
Wipe off excess before the epoxy cures. Coat a second time. Wipe again.
Check weight before and after each coating. Less than 0.1 ounce
increase in weight is OK. If more, start again with a new cork float
[available from 'T' parts suppliers].
A new cork float must be coated with very light coats of gas-resistant
epoxy. The same technique discussed above applies to new cork floats.
Gas-resistant- Try it out; soak a small amount of cured epoxy in gas.
It if softens, try another brand. If the float gets too heavy, it will
sink, causing flooding!
Adjust the float to specification. Turn carburetor upside-down.
Usually, if the float is 'level' with the top surface of carburetor,
the float level is OK.
Re-assemble and install carburetor. Adjust needle valve to one turn
open from seat. Most 'Ts' run at around 1⁄2 to 3⁄4 turn.
If adjustment is a lot different than this on NH carburetors, something
may be wrong with the carburetor or float. Review the Ford 'T' Service
Manual or the Carburetor Manual published by the MTFCA.
By now, you know if 'neutral' has a slight drag which is normal. In
some cases, long storage and some oils will allow the clutch disks to
'seize up', caused by 'congealing' of the old oil. If this occurs, jack
up one rear wheel so a 'neutral' will be available for easy start up.
To test for neutral [before start up] pull the emergency brake lever
all the way back [neutral and rear wheel brake]. If it cranks with the
starter, neutral is OK. If not, pull the engine through with the hand
crank. If no neutral, then try and free up after start up [see 'Run
Start up' later in this text].
If neutral is OK, check the pedal adjustments next. Low gear pedal
should tighten the band just before hitting the floor board. The high
gear lever should begin to engage the clutch shaft lever for neutral
about midway between all the way down and the vertical position. The
rear wheel brakes should not drag at this point. Pull the brake lever
to vertical position; both rear wheels should have an equal heavy drag
[see Rear Axle Drive Shaft and Brake Adjustment].
The transmission brake pedal should engage about one inch above the
The reverse band should engage about halfway between full up and the
If band adjustment cannot be obtained, review the Ford 'T' Service
Manual or the Transmission Manual [MTFCA] for relining and adjustment
STEERING AND FRONT AXLE
Start with the steering gear. Remove the steering wheel and steering
gear cover. Pack with moly chassis lube or wheel bearing grease. Lube
steering collar [lower part] with grease cup.
Check the pitman arm on the shaft. Many times this nut and arm are
loose on the steering shaft. Check woodruff key for slop. Oil threads
and tighten to around 75 pound feet torque and re-install the cotter
Test the drag link ball caps for looseness by turning the steering
wheel free play [wheels on ground]. Put your finger between the cap and
the steering arm. If there is 'slop' [more than 1\32 inch], remove cap
and grind flat face. Re-install cap and re-check for clearance [less
than 1\32 inch]. If OK, disassemble, grease with moly lube, tighten
bolts and jamb nuts, insert cotter pins. Test for binding (lock to
lock) with wheels off the ground.
If drag link binds, loosen bolts slightly, tighten jamb nuts, and
insert new cotter pins. Check for binding again. Repeat drag link cap
check on the right end steering link.
Check and oil the tie rod ends. If more than 1\32 inch clearance,
replace pins and bushings [See Ford 'T' Service Manual for procedures].
Rebuild kits are available from the 'T' parts supply houses.
Check the radius rod 'wishbone' ball and cap. If less than 1\64 inch
play side-to-side when turning the steering wheel [front wheels on
ground], grease wishbone ball cap, tighten and \or replace studs,
spring, and nuts. The wishbone ball must be tight in the socket with no
Safety wire both studs to each other. Do not use cotter pins. Ball
joint studs may work loose and unscrew.
Remove and inspect the front wheel bearings and grease seals. Clean
bearings in solvent ['paint thinner', not lacquer thinner]. Blow dry
with air and then wash in solvent, again. If rollers are pitted,
replace bearings and cups [races].
Grease bearings using moly wheel bearing grease. Install inner wheel
bearing and seal. Install wheel on spindle shaft and screw on outer
wheel bearing. The right spindle axle nut and bearing should be a
left-hand [counterclockwise] thread. The left side is a right-hand
thread. Tighten until snug and back off until light bearing play
exists. Install washer and jamb nut. Tighten jamb nut to line up cotter
pin slots. Bearing play should be just snug with out binding. Turn
wheel [off ground]. If it stops abruptly, loosen jamb nut, loosen
bearing nut _ turn, re-tighten jamb nut. If the wheel turns freely,
adjustment is OK.
Lastly, test the spindle and bushings [king pins] for end [up and down]
play and for vertical plane play.
In the vertical plane check [wheels off ground], grab the top and
bottom of the tire and wiggle in and out. If the outer rim moves in and
out more than one inch, look at spindle bushings and wood spokes [spoke
looseness checks in 'wheels' section]. If in and out movement at
spindle [king pin] bushing is more than 1\64 inch [0.015"] the spindle
pin bushings are very loose and should be replaced.
Next, test the bushing end play [up and down movement in the vertical
plane]. The end play clearance should be zero. Test by placing a tire
iron under the tire [wheels off the ground]. If end play clearance is
greater than 0 [like 0.005" or 0.010", 0.015" is 1\64 inch], remove
cotter pin, loosen jamb nut, tighten spindle bolt 1⁄4 turn, re-tighten
jamb nut, and re-test for end play.
The bottom portion of the axle has a thread for the spindle bolt. If
it's stripped, tighten jamb nut to take up end play. The Ford 'T'
Service Manual specifies tightening the spindle bolt until 'resistance'
to turning exists.
To avoid wheel wobble at low speed, tighten spindle bolt to just zero
end play, as outlined above. If left tight [resistance] steering will
be hard and the car will steer you and you will be constantly
correcting as you travel down the road.
Oil the oil caps at top of spindle bolt with motor oil. If oil drips to
ground out of bottom bushing, oil holes are open. If not, disassemble
spindle bushing bolt, clean oil holes and re-assemble. Test for end
play, align spindle jamb nut, and install cotter pin.
Test for camber, caster, and toe-in ['gather']. Make a 'plumb bob' with
a string and a nut tied to one end. Measure camber by holding the
string at the top outer surface of tire. Move forward until string
clears the hub cap. The horizontal measurement to tire surface at
bottom is three inches [specified in Ford 'T' Service Manual].
Test the caster [pitch] by holding a carpenter square perpendicular to
the floor and touching the front surface of bottom spindle\axle area.
Measure the distance from the square to upper edge of spindle\axle
area. This measurement should be the specified 1⁄4 inch on both
Measure the 'gather' [toe-in] by holding a tape measure the inside
front rim edge about halfway up from the ground. Measure distance to
same spot on other rim. Move the tape measure to the inside rear rim
edge. The 'toe-in' should be around 3\16 - 1⁄4 inch. For example, if
the front measures 53 1⁄2 inches and the back is 53 3⁄4 inches, the
toe-in is 1⁄4 inch.
Many times, the toe-in measurement will be 1⁄2 inch toe-in or up to 1⁄2
inch toe-out! Needles to say, the car will wander all over if the above
measurements are incorrect.
Review the Ford 'T' Service Manual for detailed procedures to measure
camber, caster, and toe [gather]. Toe is adjustable.
In 1998, the wheels with metal outer rims may be up to 78 years old!
Wood felloe and wood outer rim wheels may be 88 years old!
That's old! If the spokes are loose in any way, consider having them
re-spoked by a professional wheelwright advertised in the hobby
The wheel(s) may be slightly out of true in the vertical plane. A _
inch out of true wobble is OK; but if greater, consider re-spoking the
You have read about wheels folding up on curves and causing accidents.
It's worth the price to your family, friends, and relates, in-laws and
outlaws to make safety a top issue!
Do not try shimming, epoxy, or resin to 'tighten' up the spokes. The
heat from the rear brakes may melt the glue to honey, run out all over
the brake, and then collapse!
REAR AXLE, DRIVE SHAFT AND BRAKE CHECKS
Test the drive shaft front bushing by removing the drive shaft housing
plugs. Insert a small screwdriver and push up. If it pushes up 1\64
inch [0.015 inches] the clearance is barely acceptable the clearance
spec for this bushing is 0.002 - 0.006 inches. If the clearance is over
1\64 inches, it's very loose! This measurement excess may indicate
other rear axle wear and excess end play.
With a screwdriver, move the pin fore and aft to check drive shaft end
play. If over 1\64 inches [0.015"], it's too loose. Although loose, one
can drive the car. Consider re-building the drive shaft assembly. Check
the Ford 'T' Service Manual for overhaul procedures.
If the drive shaft\U-joint pin is loose, support the bottom of pin with
a _ punch and blocks [hardwood on cement] to the floor. Peen the top of
pin with a 1⁄4 inch punch and a two-pound hammer. Turn drive shaft 180,
and peen the other end. The pin is quite soft.
Grease the drive shaft bushing cup with moly grease, and turn it in 1⁄2
turn for every trip. The front drive shaft bushing without grease is a
'high wear' item on a 'T'!
Test the rear axle up and down play with wheels off the ground. Any
play up and down up to 0.005 inches is OK, Test the wheels with a tire
iron on the bottom side of the tire using the iron as a lever. Lift it
up and down. If it's over 0.005 inches, it's loose! The wear is usually
in the bearing axle sleeve upper outside edge [Part #2509].
To remove wheel hubs, jack up one side. Install a 'knock-out' on
opposite axle shaft. Tighten knock-out. Srike heavy blows on end of
knock-out with a 'sledge' hammer. If really tight, re-check knock-out.
If, after five hard blows, it is not loose, install a 'wheel puller' to
remove hub. Most wheel hubs fall off or come loose with a couple of
Remove the bearing [two small screwdrivers] and feel the ridge wear in
the axle sleeve. Remove the race [with puller from 'T' supply houses].
Install inner axle seals and new 'heat-treated' sleeves. ['T' supply
houses have these parts].
Measure the rear axle bearing diameter with a micrometer. The standard
diameter size of the roller bearing is 0.500 inches. If it measures
0.495 or more its OK. If it less than 0.495 inches, replace the
I personally prefer a bearing 0.002 to 0.003 inches under 0.500 inches.
The looser, the faster the car will go up to an acceptable limit!
While the bearing is out, check the axle end play. If over 1\32 inch
[0.031"], it's excessive. If left this way, the axle may shift in and
out causing the drum to rub the brake lining edges. It may squeal!
Check the Ford 'T' Service Manual for correct set up when re-building
the rear axle assembly.
Install inner grease seals [Part #2511] and the bearing sleeves [there
is a left and right sleeve; grease holes must line up!].
Grease the rear axle bearing with heavy duty wheel bearing grease or
moly grease. Install bearings. Tap bearings in lightly and turn cage
back and forth. With old bearings, they will slip in easily. With new,
reproduction bearings, a moderate tap is OK.
When all the way in, the bearings will rotate easily, because the axle
is usually worn from 0.003 to 0.005 inches on the bearing surface area.
If in doubt about the above, review the Ford 'T' Service Manual for
Check the brake shoe lining. The small 9-inch brakes with lining is
inadequate for hill country, but may be OK for flat country [a personal
opinion]. You may want to consider 'rocky mountain' brakes.
The 11-inch brakes ['26°©'27 'T'] is much better and adequate for
mountain driving. 'Fade' may still be a problem.
Recently , I had my 11-inch brakes relined with a 'molded Kevlar'
lining used in industrial brake applications. The brand name is Redco
Heavy Duty Woven Lining. This Kevlar lining will withstand higher
temperatures before fade than Model T brake lining. If it fades, the
brakes will recover faster upon cooling.
After 100 miles, the brakes seated and stopping power is superb with
In either case, have the lining professionally drilled and riveted with
brake machinery. Don't skimp and do it 'by hand'! It will work loose!
There goes your safety factor!
Oil brake arm cam lever bushings. Put a thin film of moly grease on the
cam surface [top and bottom]. Install lining. Disconnect brake rods.
Prepare rear axles. Remove axle burrs and shine taper surfaces with 80
grit-type sand paper. Peen the outer end of the axle keyway. Insert the
axle key by tapping into the burr. You don't want this to move when
installing the wheel hub. Clean axle threads with a _ x 13 [National
Fine] die. Tap nut to clean thread.
Oil axle surface, axle thread, and nut for a better torque.
Slip on hub drum. Rotate wheel. If you hear a metal scraping, it may be
the brake lining edge rubbing the drum. Remove hub and install an axle
shim [Part #2505 SH] coated with oil. Recheck for scraping sound.
The oiled axle shaft surfaces will provide a better seating of the hub
on the axle. Install the nut, and snug lightly [for now]. Re-install
brake rods, oil clevis pins, and install cotter pins.
Adjust the brakes for equal drag. Pull the emergency brake handle to
the vertical position. Test for equal drag on both wheels.
Move brake lever to neutral with no brake. Test for free-wheeling at
rear wheels. The trick is to have the wheels free in neutral with no
brake drag, then pull lever to vertical. The wheels should have a heavy
equal drag to almost locked up with brake lever in vertical position.
Make sure emergency brake lever and locking pawl doesn't slip. If it
does, replace it [pawl].
In my experience, the rear brakes are, quite often, adjusted too tight.
If tight, the brake applies the instant you pull the lever into
As new brake lining high spots wear in, re-adjust rear brakes for equal
drag as outlined above.
If all the above adjusts out as discussed above, tighten brake rod
clevis jam nuts and install cotter pins in clevis pins.
Torque the axle nuts to 75 foot pounds, align the cotter pin slots, and
insert the cotter pin.
Fill the differential case to bottom edge of fill plug hole with 140
weight gear oil.
Now, for the big test! If all the above has been performed with good
repair practice and adjusted to specification, your car should start in
5-10 seconds and almost be ready to drive on tour! The order of start
up and drive events are as follows:
Adjust mixture, engine off
Crank and start
Adjust mixture and spark advance
Test for rod knocks
Test transmission band adjustment
Drive car, test shifting
Drive car, test brakes
Drive car, test for 'wabble'
Test for overheating
Drive car on tour!
Turn on gas and adjust mixture rod to one turn open from seated
position. Hook up battery.
With gas at half throttle and spark in full-retarded position, crank
engine for five seconds. During crank, choke for up to two seconds.
On hand crank models, use the same throttle and retarded spark settings
as previously discussed. With ignition off, pull crank through three
times with full choke. Release choke.
Turn on ignition, leave spark retarded, and crank to start.
Upon start up, be prepared to choke slightly as the engine begins to
rev up. If it's 'sputtering', open choke [no choke] to let it rev up
more. Advance spark to half way on 'Ts' equipped with four coils and
timer. To lean the mixture, turn mixture knob clockwise until the
engine 'smooths out'.
Return to idle slowly. Adjust idle throttle screw and mixture rod to
maintain good idle smoothness.
NOTE: In my experience, the mixture rod will be open around 3⁄4 turns
from seated position at 1⁄2 throttle. Idle mixture setting for a long
idle usually requires about 1⁄4 turn more rich [counter-clockwise] than
at 1⁄2 throttle in neutral.
During warm up, rev engine to around 1200 RPM. Leave it at a steady
RPM. Listen for knock(s).
Short [with a screwdriver], one spark plug at a time. That cylinder
will drop in RPM. Simultaneously, listen for knock while plug is
shorted. If the knock goes away while shorting out the cylinder, the
rod is loose.
Perform the same test on remaining cylinders.
After a long warm up, perform the same rod knock test, again. If it
still knocks, the rod(s) is\(are) very loose.
In addition, test for center main bearing knock by holding at _
throttle and spark advanced halfway. Short number two and three spark
plug simultaneously. If the knock goes away, adjust the center main
after you adjust the rods. If you have any doubt about knocks, review
the MTFCA Engine Manual for procedures.
To test the transmission bands, set emergency brake and start engine.
Warm up. With emergency brake set, push in low pedal gently. Listen for
a changing transmission 'whine'. This is the beginning of low band
engagement. This point should be around one °© two inches up from the
Next, push in reverse pedal with emergency brake set. The pedal should
travel about half-way (1⁄2) to the floorboard surface.
With new, or old transmission bands, start with the above suggested
adjustments. The real test is on the road. The adjustments may seem on
the 'loose' side to you. However, the loose adjustments will minimize
premature failure due to excessive drag.
If the bands are too tight, they will already be partially engaged.
They may work against each other, and the transmission may sound like
it's binding up. Further the bands may burn and fail prematurely due to
lack of oil [cooling].
Sometimes the clutch disks will not allow a neutral. To test for
neutral while running with one wheel jacked up, pull brake lever back
slowly to neutral. Note RPM change, if any. Then continue to pull
increasing brake drag. Engine RPM should not change and transmission
neutral is OK.
If engine slows down during this maneuver, clutch disks are hung up
and\or oil is congealed on disks' surfaces. Try this brake on\off
procedure for 10 minutes.
If it [neutral] still does not work, change oil again. Repeat above
steps. If it still hangs up, remove, disassemble engine and
transmission to repair clutch.
READY FOR ROAD TEST
Now the big plunge! You're ready for the road!
If you are not experienced, ask an experienced friend who regularly
drives 'Ts' on tours to drive your car the first time.
Slowly, slowly, engage reverse pedal gently and back out of the
driveway. Leave emergency brake in neutral position to hold clutch
pedal in place, while backing up.
Push in low pedal to move forward. Leave emergency brake lever in
neutral. Accelerate to 10 MPH in low, then let up on the throttle and
Let the car coast. Then apply foot brakes, gently. No chatter during
stop- Next accelerate to 10 MPH in low. With your foot still on low
pedal let the brake lever into high gear position [all the way down].
At 10 MPH, let throttle off slightly and simultaneously let clutch
[high gear] engage by slowly letting up low pedal.
Note how smooth the shift is! If it chatters, the clutch disks may be
'hanging up' on the inside of the transmission brake drum guides.
After 50 miles or so, change the crankcase oil, again. When bringing
your car out of mothballs, the syrupy oil could cause the hangup and
rough shift. New oil may minimize the rough shift.
You have been applying the emergency brake gently, noting pull. At 30
MPH in high gear, let up on throttle and pull emergency brake to lock
the rear wheels [panic stop]. Be prepared for a pull to right or left.
If it pulls to right, adjust the left clevis pin one turn tighter and
re-install cotter pin. Try panic stop again. If you cannot get equal
pull, re-line emergency brakes as discussed in brake section.
Test for 'Wabble':
Proceed over chuck holes slowly [5 MPH]. If shimmy develops, re-check
front end looseness and alignment checks, as outlined in the 'Front
Test the radiator. If it boils on a cool day during these pre-tour
tests, consider a 'flat tube' radiator re-core or a new radiator. In a
good radiator system, water pumps are unnecessary, even on hot days.
READY FOR TOUR
If all the above works as outlined above, you're now ready for a
Before every tour:
_Fill radiator to 1⁄2 inch from full up
_ Check oil drip out of top petcock
_ Clean timer
_Fill tank with gas
_Turn front drive shaft bushing grease cup one turn.
_Start, warm up, and go on tour!
Here is Milt's website: Milt